The weather in Cancun was pretty average and I spent most of the time in the hotel. Friday night was a social night in the hotel bar and drinks for ladies were free. There was a fashion launch in one section of the hotel so most of the guests were locals. Due to the amount of travelling to date I spent my time relaxing and didn't partake in any big night outs that Caccun is renowned for.
I met up with the new Gap tour a day late. This time I have a roommate, John, a 67yr old from Las Vegas. A bit of a Mr Meldrew from One foot in the Grave and keeps mainly to himself. The rest of the group are Aussies, a Dutch girl, a Canadian and American tour guide. We headed off to another touristy town of Playa Del Carmen on the East coast of Mexico. To be honest you could have been in any beach resort town as you couldn't tell you were in Mexico. Most of the tour party are pretty quiet or on an extreme budget so it is not easy to find someone who even wants to go out for a few beers. This seems to be the story of the trip. The Aussies, Americans and Canadians seem to be the least entertaining and adventurous people whilst on holiday. Maybe it's just the people who do tours. I dunno but this will be my last tour other than the odd day trips.
In the two days at Playa the group did a day trip to the Tulum Mayan ruins which is by a beautiful beach and the crystal blue ocean. We then headed back to Playa and stopped at a nice and quieter beach renowned for sea turtles. I spent about 30mins snorkeling with some very tame and large turtles which was probably the highlight of things to do around Playa.
After 2 nights at Playa it was almost a full day of travelling down to the island of Caye Caulker in Belize. First was a 4hr journey down to the Belizian border and then a change to a local chicken bus which felt like it stopped every 100m every time a local put their hand out. By the time we got the boat across to Caye Caulker it was already dark. The next day I did the day trip to the reefs and I opted to snorkel. The weather was sunny and needless to say i got pretty sunburned after someone forgot to rub my sun lotion in properly. Most of the reef we visited was dead but there was plenty of sea life. Lots of cool fish, rays and nurse sharks. Belize itself was once owned by the British so the first language is English. It has a distinct Caribbean feel and quite a few reggae bars. By the sound of it you can smoke, drink or snort whatever you like. I was feeling by this point and after quite a few weeks travelling of staying on the island for perhaps 5 days and dropping off our tour. However there is not decent beach on the island and very few tourists so I figured I would probably get bored pretty quick.
Next stop on the tour was San Ignacio which takes about 4 hrs, again on a local bus. It is in the jungle and our lodgings were a basic setup but it was comfortable enough. Unfortunately again I came down with another cold courtesy of John my roommate. Around San Ignacio there are days trips to some caves and waterfalls but all I could muster was a few kms walk to some local Mayan Ruins at Xunantunich. The view was actually very nice from the top of the tallest ruin.
From San Ignacio we travelled another 3-4 hrs across into Guatemala to a very small island in the middle of a lake called Flores. Guatemala is again dominated by a Spanish influence. The people are quite dark skinned but I found them to be perhaps the most friendly and smiley of all the countries I've visited so far. There are very few English speakers so although it is possible to get by, learning anything from the locals would require a fair amount of Spanish understanding. Flores is a cute little town. You can walk around it in about 15mins. There are a few nice places around the lake side where you can enjoy a beer and the first night we had a beautiful sunset. The following morning it was an early start at 5am to visit the most famous ruins in Guatemala, Tikal. This site is quite large and in the middle of the jungle. It takes a few hrs to walk between the different Mayan ruins and a few of them you can climb and get views out over the jungle. There is plenty of wildlife to spot ranging from Howler monkeys, ant eaters, Toucans and if you are lucky you may see Pumas and snakes. The ruins themselves are quite good but when you have seen a few different Mayan ruins before it's enough and certainly none of the Mayan ruins compare to Machu Picchu.
The final afternoon in Flores was spent drinking and swinging in hammocks on the top floor of the hotel. Now we are staying in more jungle cabins in a place called Rio Dulce. Tomorrow will be a trip down the river to visit the old slave port of Livingston.
Monday, December 22, 2008
Friday, December 12, 2008
Lake Titicaca, Peru Roundup and Cancun Arrival
Lake Titicaca
The journey from Cusco to Puno on the bank of Lake Titicaca is about 6 hrs by bus. The scenery is not as spectacular as I was hoping but the Peruvian people wearing their bright textiles contrasts amazingly with the barren landscape.
Puno itself isn't a particularly beautiful town but it is a good base to do a day tour on the lake. One thing I noticed particularly is that most houses in the towns look only half complete. That is to say there are 2 floors and then the third floor looks like in is in the preparation stages. The reason we were told is that if a house is incomplete there is a loophole where any resident living in the completed floors do not have to pay taxes. One town we passed through had about 90% of houses like this which kinda reminded me of a nuclear test site. Juliaca was the name - do not stop to visit this place. Yuck!
After a heavy nights rain we set off on a beautiful morning for our tour of Lake Titicaca. The Lake is about 170km long and sits at an altitude of over 3800m. On the Lake the first stop is to the floating islands of the Uros people. They have lived for generations on the Lake and built small floating islands made of reeds in which to live on. You can if you wish stay on one of the islands with a family overnight. I preferred just to do the day tour myself. The islanders demonstrated how they build the islands and also how they anchor the island in the Lake. Each island has a few families living on it. The women are well rounded to say the least due to not getting enough exercise I suppose. The kids as in most of Peru are very cute and perhaps this day I got some of my best shots. The Uros people now rely more on tourism for an income and they make some garments to sell to tourists. It was an interesting visit and the people seemed happy despite what obviously is a hard and simple life.
Next stop on the Lake is about a 3 hr boat ride to an island called Taquile. This island has some nice views and a small number of villagers living on it. Because the lake is deep the lake looks an amazing deep blue and it reminded me of a Greek island in the Med. Along the path to the main village center you meet some beautiful old villagers going about their daily lives. Many of the villagers look in their 70's-80's but the tour guide said they were in their 50's. He's got to be kidding! Again photo opportunities come thick and fast. Most will ask for 1 sole if they spot you taking a photo.
The men of the village learn to knit from a young age and have to knit their own hat. The hats are different for the children, men and women. The size of the tassles hanging from the hat or skirts determine if the villager is single or not. Large means you are single and small means you are married.
We have lunch on top of a hill with nice views over the Lake and then head off back to Puno for our last night and then flight back to Lima.
Peru Roundup
The tour finishes with the final night in Lima and I reflect on what has been a great trip but extremely tiring one. After two back to back tours I've ready for some r'n'r. Peru has some great highlights and it would have been nice to have a month instead of 2 weeks but alas I feel I saw 90% of what I wanted to see. Will I go back? Probably not but I would definitely recommend a trip to the Amazon or a Machu Picchu trek to any wannabe South American traveller.
You hear reports of Peru and especially Lima of being dangerous. I don't deny you hearing horror stories but I felt safe throughout my trip. The people are friendly if you make the effort and give a nice smile. Perhaps not as friendly and smiley as Thailand and other parts of Asia but the people work hard for very little. There are many kids especially working from a very young age which is something I think the Government need to stop so the kids can get some education and improve Peru for future generations. It was also good to see at least in the Amazon strict controls on curbing damage to the environment which is far advanced from the Brazilian mentality.
Cancun Arrival
Now I'm chilling out for a few days in Cancun. The journey was a long one and the amount of security checks in Mexico is a little un-nerving. Perhaps I look like a drug mule but luckily no fingers up my bottom yet! The journey to the Cancun strip of hotels along the narrow beach takes about 20 mins. I've never in my life seen so many large hotels in one place (apart from Vegas of course in a few weeks!). My hotel is called ME by Melia and it is beautiful inside. My room is very modern and comfortable and the breakfast I had this morning was unbelievable. I've never seen such a variety and choice of food in any hotel I've stayed in. They have about 5 areas and three stations with different cooks to make a huge list of things for you (omelets, pancakes, waffles etc). There is an area dedicated to healthy food which every type of fruit, cheese, yogurt you could think of. Absolutely amazing. The 4 kilos I've lost so far may come back very quickly after a few days of this.
The journey from Cusco to Puno on the bank of Lake Titicaca is about 6 hrs by bus. The scenery is not as spectacular as I was hoping but the Peruvian people wearing their bright textiles contrasts amazingly with the barren landscape.
Puno itself isn't a particularly beautiful town but it is a good base to do a day tour on the lake. One thing I noticed particularly is that most houses in the towns look only half complete. That is to say there are 2 floors and then the third floor looks like in is in the preparation stages. The reason we were told is that if a house is incomplete there is a loophole where any resident living in the completed floors do not have to pay taxes. One town we passed through had about 90% of houses like this which kinda reminded me of a nuclear test site. Juliaca was the name - do not stop to visit this place. Yuck!
After a heavy nights rain we set off on a beautiful morning for our tour of Lake Titicaca. The Lake is about 170km long and sits at an altitude of over 3800m. On the Lake the first stop is to the floating islands of the Uros people. They have lived for generations on the Lake and built small floating islands made of reeds in which to live on. You can if you wish stay on one of the islands with a family overnight. I preferred just to do the day tour myself. The islanders demonstrated how they build the islands and also how they anchor the island in the Lake. Each island has a few families living on it. The women are well rounded to say the least due to not getting enough exercise I suppose. The kids as in most of Peru are very cute and perhaps this day I got some of my best shots. The Uros people now rely more on tourism for an income and they make some garments to sell to tourists. It was an interesting visit and the people seemed happy despite what obviously is a hard and simple life.
Next stop on the Lake is about a 3 hr boat ride to an island called Taquile. This island has some nice views and a small number of villagers living on it. Because the lake is deep the lake looks an amazing deep blue and it reminded me of a Greek island in the Med. Along the path to the main village center you meet some beautiful old villagers going about their daily lives. Many of the villagers look in their 70's-80's but the tour guide said they were in their 50's. He's got to be kidding! Again photo opportunities come thick and fast. Most will ask for 1 sole if they spot you taking a photo.
The men of the village learn to knit from a young age and have to knit their own hat. The hats are different for the children, men and women. The size of the tassles hanging from the hat or skirts determine if the villager is single or not. Large means you are single and small means you are married.
We have lunch on top of a hill with nice views over the Lake and then head off back to Puno for our last night and then flight back to Lima.
Peru Roundup
The tour finishes with the final night in Lima and I reflect on what has been a great trip but extremely tiring one. After two back to back tours I've ready for some r'n'r. Peru has some great highlights and it would have been nice to have a month instead of 2 weeks but alas I feel I saw 90% of what I wanted to see. Will I go back? Probably not but I would definitely recommend a trip to the Amazon or a Machu Picchu trek to any wannabe South American traveller.
You hear reports of Peru and especially Lima of being dangerous. I don't deny you hearing horror stories but I felt safe throughout my trip. The people are friendly if you make the effort and give a nice smile. Perhaps not as friendly and smiley as Thailand and other parts of Asia but the people work hard for very little. There are many kids especially working from a very young age which is something I think the Government need to stop so the kids can get some education and improve Peru for future generations. It was also good to see at least in the Amazon strict controls on curbing damage to the environment which is far advanced from the Brazilian mentality.
Cancun Arrival
Now I'm chilling out for a few days in Cancun. The journey was a long one and the amount of security checks in Mexico is a little un-nerving. Perhaps I look like a drug mule but luckily no fingers up my bottom yet! The journey to the Cancun strip of hotels along the narrow beach takes about 20 mins. I've never in my life seen so many large hotels in one place (apart from Vegas of course in a few weeks!). My hotel is called ME by Melia and it is beautiful inside. My room is very modern and comfortable and the breakfast I had this morning was unbelievable. I've never seen such a variety and choice of food in any hotel I've stayed in. They have about 5 areas and three stations with different cooks to make a huge list of things for you (omelets, pancakes, waffles etc). There is an area dedicated to healthy food which every type of fruit, cheese, yogurt you could think of. Absolutely amazing. The 4 kilos I've lost so far may come back very quickly after a few days of this.
Sunday, December 7, 2008
Cusco and the Inca Trail
Cusco
After a short 30 min flight to Cusco (the center of the Inca Empire) we settled into a hotel near the town square. Cusco is situated at over 10000 feet so breathing becomes more difficult and I definitely noticed the altitude. Even climbing a short set of stairs had me huffing and puffing.
The first 2 days in Cusco is spent acclimatising. I did a city tour to some of the Inca ruins but to honest they were quite disappointing. Cusco itself is quite a pretty city. Low rise building with orange roofs and nice architecture in the from of cathedrals and churches and long and steep narrow streets with plenty of steps. At night Cusco looks even better with most historical building nicely illuminated. On the streets there is plenty of hassle from street kids trying to sell you painting, cheap jewelery or wanting you to pay for a photograph of them. It's all a little too much when you see a 6 year old kid working from early morning until very late at night. We were told not to give the kids candy or money as this encourages their parents to keep them begging instead of them going to school.
As with many poorer countries there is no shortage of markets and people selling the same merchandise at every tourist hot spot. When you've seen one stall you've pretty much seen them all. Soft Alpaca and Lama clothing seems to be the go. It is quite cheap but I already have enough to carry around.
The nightlife in Cusco seems very lively and the English couple and myself found a cool little bar over looking the main square and serving excellent happy hour cocktails with decent music. The problem for many of us on the trip is the early starts and our body clocks are all over the place coupled with the fact that it seems much harder to sleep for long periods at altitude. You find yourself trying to grab an hour or two when on a bus or train.
Inca Trail
We were giving our briefing the day before by our guide, Henry. One good thing about the Gap tours are that they use local people well versed in the history and culture of Peru. We were told that there were 14 of us doing the hike and that we would have 22 porters and 3 guides. We are given a duffel bag to fill with clothes and toiletries which must not exceed 6 kgs. The porters are now limited to carry a maximum of 25 kgs whereas in some cases in the past they carried over 50 kgs which apparently led to some deaths. The walk itself is only 43km and you climb over three mountain passes. The highest of which is on day 2 at 4250m.
Day 1 - We took a 90 min bus ride to the 82km check point and the start of the trail. At one time the trail led all the way to Cusco but the Incas destroyed the trail to protect Machu Picchu from the Spanish invaders. The Spanish never did discover Machu Picchu and it wasn't until 1911 when it was finally discovered.
The first day is pretty easy and leads through a beautiful valley of towering mountains. The weather was warm and although there was a thin layer of cloud the majority of group got sun burnt. On the way up the valley you pass the ruins of a small Inca city with the traditional Inca style terraces. After 2 hours we stop for lunch. Everything is prepared for our arrival. There is a tent setup and a 2 course meal consisting of soup and a fancy chicken roll stuffed with ham, cheese and greens. After a hot drink you are told you can lie outside on some pre-prepared mattresses for a siesta. All in all this is a very cushy trip. You don't have to do anything other than walk and carry a day pack with wet gear, water and camera equipment. There are plenty of clean toilet facilities on the entire Inca trail although no showers until the final campsite.
After lunch it is another 2 hrs to our first campsite which is set near an old ruin and on a very green terrace. The cloud cleared and we had great views of the surrounding mountains. Again everything is prepared by the porters upon your arrival. The tents are setup and your duffel bag inside your tent. Then dinner is served again in the communal tent. The food is actually very good considering the number of people and every single meal, being it starter, main or dessert was different on everyday of the hike. Because of the early 5am wake up calls we all retire to bed by 9pm on the first night.
Day 2 - This is the challenge day where you climb up to Dead Woman's Pass and the highest point on the Inca Trail. We are told the day would take about 7 hrs. You could do the hikes much quicker if you were fit and didn't stop but I think the group were glad to take their time and have plenty of rest stops. After 2 hours of climbing we stop for half of our lunch (soup and garlic bread) before we continue on for the last 1 1/2 hrs. The trail itself has many steps and it definitely helps having two poles for ascending and most of all, descending. After lunch at over 4000m you really start to feel the effects of altitude and many people walk a few meters and pause to catch their breath. I was struggling also but kept a steady pace which led me to the summit first. I was at the summit for about 1 1/2 hrs before the final members of the group finished the climb. The morning had been beautiful weather and the views excellent. On the other side of the pass however it was misty and it was raining by the time we took the group photo. You descend for about 1 1/2 hrs to the campsite below where we were all glad of a late lunch and early dinner. We were all in bed by 8pm. The main problem with that however is that I tended to sleep until 2am and then was restless until the wake-up call at 5am.
Day 3 - This is a 9 hr day consisting of a 16km hike and the remaining 2 passes. The guide told me day 3 had some of the best views which unfortunately for us we had to imagine as we were in thick mist for 90% of the day. The actual plant life on the trail is amazing and more than makes up for the lack of views. The number of species of plants and flowers is a botanists dream. For example you have huge cactus's, huge spider plants, hundreds of different types of trees growing at extremely high altitude and over 400 species of orchids (some flowering for just 1 day). On Day 3 after the final third pass you descend for about 2 1/2 hours to the final campsite. Towards the end of the day we emerged from the mist and cloud to see beautiful valley views and visit some more Inca steeply terraced ruins. Everyone made it safely to camp and all of us were in anticipation of the final 2 hr walk to Machu Picchu on day 4. Upon arriving at the campsite on day 3 and after a hot shower I didn't feel quite right. 3 trips to the toilet and then 3 trips out of the tent to violently vomit ensued. I'm not exactly sure why I was sick as I had eaten the same lunch as every else. The guides gave me some tea and buscopan to calm my stomach and luckily the vomiting stopped and got some sleep hoping I would be able to complete the hike to Machu Picchu at 5am the next day.
Day 4 - We are woken at 4am and I am feeling a bit weak but managed to drink some tea and plenty of water. The group finish their breakfast and we present our tips to the guides and porters. I think we all gave generously as we really appreciated the efforts of the porters. They work tirelessly hauling huge bags on their backs and race past you on the trail. One porter set a record of 3 1/2 hrs for the entire trail a few years ago. If you've ever walked this trail then you can't imagine what an amazing feat that is. I still can't believe it is physically possible.
The mist is very low once again but we set off at 5.30 am and hope it will clear. We walked for about 40 mins before ascending to the Sun gate for our first view of Machu Picchu. Of course we don't see a bloody thing! We wait about 30 mins before starting our descent to Machu Picchu. It takes about 20 mins to descend and out of the mist and we suddenly get a glimpse of the ruins. It's hard to put into words how amazing this place is. Despite all the photos there is nothing like being there and seeing everything in fantastic 3D. The mist slowly begins to lift and we get the famous view of Machu Picchu. The peaks of the larger mountains in the back ground remain in cloud for most of the day and the mist comes and goes throughout our stay. We have plenty of time for photos and Henry gives us a 2 hr tour of the ruins. It begins raining again about 1 hr into the tour. The changes in the weather add to the mystic of the place. You can, if you wish, climb a steep mountain on the other side of the ruins for the reverse angle view. I think by this time we are all a little tired of climbing more steep steps so none of us attempt it.
We descend by bus to the river and small township of Aguas Calientes below where we wait for our scenic train ride back towards Cusco. The train ride itself was a bit bizarre as the two hostesses after serving a snack began a fashion show in our carriage to some cheesy music. At the end they then try to sell the garments.
I would highly recommend the Inca Trail or one of the other treks to Machu Picchu in the area. It really is an amazing experience, challenge and is spiritually up lifting. Despite some of the group not being very fit everyone made the trip. It helps the enjoyment factor if you actually do some physical training beforehand. Some were walking like they were twice their age by the last day but I think even they appreciated the achievement. The guides were always very encouraging and you had one leading the main group at the front, one in the middle and one at the end.
Now I'm back in Cusco and I'm typing this at 4am as I can't seem to sleep for long periods despite feeling physically tired. Today is a day off before a 7 hr journey to Puno and a visit to the villages on Lake Titicaca.
After a short 30 min flight to Cusco (the center of the Inca Empire) we settled into a hotel near the town square. Cusco is situated at over 10000 feet so breathing becomes more difficult and I definitely noticed the altitude. Even climbing a short set of stairs had me huffing and puffing.
The first 2 days in Cusco is spent acclimatising. I did a city tour to some of the Inca ruins but to honest they were quite disappointing. Cusco itself is quite a pretty city. Low rise building with orange roofs and nice architecture in the from of cathedrals and churches and long and steep narrow streets with plenty of steps. At night Cusco looks even better with most historical building nicely illuminated. On the streets there is plenty of hassle from street kids trying to sell you painting, cheap jewelery or wanting you to pay for a photograph of them. It's all a little too much when you see a 6 year old kid working from early morning until very late at night. We were told not to give the kids candy or money as this encourages their parents to keep them begging instead of them going to school.
As with many poorer countries there is no shortage of markets and people selling the same merchandise at every tourist hot spot. When you've seen one stall you've pretty much seen them all. Soft Alpaca and Lama clothing seems to be the go. It is quite cheap but I already have enough to carry around.
The nightlife in Cusco seems very lively and the English couple and myself found a cool little bar over looking the main square and serving excellent happy hour cocktails with decent music. The problem for many of us on the trip is the early starts and our body clocks are all over the place coupled with the fact that it seems much harder to sleep for long periods at altitude. You find yourself trying to grab an hour or two when on a bus or train.
Inca Trail
We were giving our briefing the day before by our guide, Henry. One good thing about the Gap tours are that they use local people well versed in the history and culture of Peru. We were told that there were 14 of us doing the hike and that we would have 22 porters and 3 guides. We are given a duffel bag to fill with clothes and toiletries which must not exceed 6 kgs. The porters are now limited to carry a maximum of 25 kgs whereas in some cases in the past they carried over 50 kgs which apparently led to some deaths. The walk itself is only 43km and you climb over three mountain passes. The highest of which is on day 2 at 4250m.
Day 1 - We took a 90 min bus ride to the 82km check point and the start of the trail. At one time the trail led all the way to Cusco but the Incas destroyed the trail to protect Machu Picchu from the Spanish invaders. The Spanish never did discover Machu Picchu and it wasn't until 1911 when it was finally discovered.
The first day is pretty easy and leads through a beautiful valley of towering mountains. The weather was warm and although there was a thin layer of cloud the majority of group got sun burnt. On the way up the valley you pass the ruins of a small Inca city with the traditional Inca style terraces. After 2 hours we stop for lunch. Everything is prepared for our arrival. There is a tent setup and a 2 course meal consisting of soup and a fancy chicken roll stuffed with ham, cheese and greens. After a hot drink you are told you can lie outside on some pre-prepared mattresses for a siesta. All in all this is a very cushy trip. You don't have to do anything other than walk and carry a day pack with wet gear, water and camera equipment. There are plenty of clean toilet facilities on the entire Inca trail although no showers until the final campsite.
After lunch it is another 2 hrs to our first campsite which is set near an old ruin and on a very green terrace. The cloud cleared and we had great views of the surrounding mountains. Again everything is prepared by the porters upon your arrival. The tents are setup and your duffel bag inside your tent. Then dinner is served again in the communal tent. The food is actually very good considering the number of people and every single meal, being it starter, main or dessert was different on everyday of the hike. Because of the early 5am wake up calls we all retire to bed by 9pm on the first night.
Day 2 - This is the challenge day where you climb up to Dead Woman's Pass and the highest point on the Inca Trail. We are told the day would take about 7 hrs. You could do the hikes much quicker if you were fit and didn't stop but I think the group were glad to take their time and have plenty of rest stops. After 2 hours of climbing we stop for half of our lunch (soup and garlic bread) before we continue on for the last 1 1/2 hrs. The trail itself has many steps and it definitely helps having two poles for ascending and most of all, descending. After lunch at over 4000m you really start to feel the effects of altitude and many people walk a few meters and pause to catch their breath. I was struggling also but kept a steady pace which led me to the summit first. I was at the summit for about 1 1/2 hrs before the final members of the group finished the climb. The morning had been beautiful weather and the views excellent. On the other side of the pass however it was misty and it was raining by the time we took the group photo. You descend for about 1 1/2 hrs to the campsite below where we were all glad of a late lunch and early dinner. We were all in bed by 8pm. The main problem with that however is that I tended to sleep until 2am and then was restless until the wake-up call at 5am.
Day 3 - This is a 9 hr day consisting of a 16km hike and the remaining 2 passes. The guide told me day 3 had some of the best views which unfortunately for us we had to imagine as we were in thick mist for 90% of the day. The actual plant life on the trail is amazing and more than makes up for the lack of views. The number of species of plants and flowers is a botanists dream. For example you have huge cactus's, huge spider plants, hundreds of different types of trees growing at extremely high altitude and over 400 species of orchids (some flowering for just 1 day). On Day 3 after the final third pass you descend for about 2 1/2 hours to the final campsite. Towards the end of the day we emerged from the mist and cloud to see beautiful valley views and visit some more Inca steeply terraced ruins. Everyone made it safely to camp and all of us were in anticipation of the final 2 hr walk to Machu Picchu on day 4. Upon arriving at the campsite on day 3 and after a hot shower I didn't feel quite right. 3 trips to the toilet and then 3 trips out of the tent to violently vomit ensued. I'm not exactly sure why I was sick as I had eaten the same lunch as every else. The guides gave me some tea and buscopan to calm my stomach and luckily the vomiting stopped and got some sleep hoping I would be able to complete the hike to Machu Picchu at 5am the next day.
Day 4 - We are woken at 4am and I am feeling a bit weak but managed to drink some tea and plenty of water. The group finish their breakfast and we present our tips to the guides and porters. I think we all gave generously as we really appreciated the efforts of the porters. They work tirelessly hauling huge bags on their backs and race past you on the trail. One porter set a record of 3 1/2 hrs for the entire trail a few years ago. If you've ever walked this trail then you can't imagine what an amazing feat that is. I still can't believe it is physically possible.
The mist is very low once again but we set off at 5.30 am and hope it will clear. We walked for about 40 mins before ascending to the Sun gate for our first view of Machu Picchu. Of course we don't see a bloody thing! We wait about 30 mins before starting our descent to Machu Picchu. It takes about 20 mins to descend and out of the mist and we suddenly get a glimpse of the ruins. It's hard to put into words how amazing this place is. Despite all the photos there is nothing like being there and seeing everything in fantastic 3D. The mist slowly begins to lift and we get the famous view of Machu Picchu. The peaks of the larger mountains in the back ground remain in cloud for most of the day and the mist comes and goes throughout our stay. We have plenty of time for photos and Henry gives us a 2 hr tour of the ruins. It begins raining again about 1 hr into the tour. The changes in the weather add to the mystic of the place. You can, if you wish, climb a steep mountain on the other side of the ruins for the reverse angle view. I think by this time we are all a little tired of climbing more steep steps so none of us attempt it.
We descend by bus to the river and small township of Aguas Calientes below where we wait for our scenic train ride back towards Cusco. The train ride itself was a bit bizarre as the two hostesses after serving a snack began a fashion show in our carriage to some cheesy music. At the end they then try to sell the garments.
I would highly recommend the Inca Trail or one of the other treks to Machu Picchu in the area. It really is an amazing experience, challenge and is spiritually up lifting. Despite some of the group not being very fit everyone made the trip. It helps the enjoyment factor if you actually do some physical training beforehand. Some were walking like they were twice their age by the last day but I think even they appreciated the achievement. The guides were always very encouraging and you had one leading the main group at the front, one in the middle and one at the end.
Now I'm back in Cusco and I'm typing this at 4am as I can't seem to sleep for long periods despite feeling physically tired. Today is a day off before a 7 hr journey to Puno and a visit to the villages on Lake Titicaca.
Monday, December 1, 2008
Amazon
I arrived in Lima a day early and had no problems with customs. You have to press a button upon collecting your luggage.If the light goes Green you are cleared to go through. I know one guy had it go red and he was stuck in customs for 4 hrs. I guess they must monitor you on video.
Lima itself is a very large low rise and wide spread city. The trip from the airport to the hotel didn't particularly paint a great picture. On the second day I decided to do a city tour and a few museums. The Gold museum and catacombs under a church were the highlights but perhaps the only thing worth seeing in Lima.
That evening everyone arrived for the tour. I have 10 women and 3 other guys on my tour. There are six 18 yr olds from Australia, a few people in their 20's and a few older couples from Canada and the US. I would be the only person in their 30's.
To get to the Amazon involves a flight, a motorised boat up a river, a 40 min walk and then a canoe across a lake to the lodge. To be honest I was expecting a very basic setup but the accommodation was excellent. For some reason because of the numbers I get a room to myself throughout the tour which consists of a double bed and en suite. The couples have to make do with two single beds. Oh well...
The first day in the Amazon was stinking hot and the weather was great. Of course I had concerns about getting bitten by mosquito's but in the 3 days I only got one bite. Whilst at the lodge there are a few tour guides to take you on various trips. The first trip started in the evening with a walk near the lodge spotting various animals. It's amazing how alive the jungle is night with wildlife. We saw tarantulas on the trees literally about 20 feet from our rooms. Also we saw some very odd creatures with peanut shaped heads, a snake and bullfrog. The sound is amazing also.
The next day we were woken at 4.30am to go for a cruise on the lake and spotting various birds, monkeys and a giant otter family. We had good luck and I managed to get some good shots with my long zoom so it is worth the effort carrying it around. The day I spent just relaxing in a hammock in the lodge and I wished the tour had an extra few nights as the Amazon is well worth the experience. Our final night was spent on the lake again this time spotting Cayman (croc species) with our flash lights.
Now I've just arrived in the high altitude city of Cusco where I have a few days to acclimatize before setting off on the Inca trail.
Lima itself is a very large low rise and wide spread city. The trip from the airport to the hotel didn't particularly paint a great picture. On the second day I decided to do a city tour and a few museums. The Gold museum and catacombs under a church were the highlights but perhaps the only thing worth seeing in Lima.
That evening everyone arrived for the tour. I have 10 women and 3 other guys on my tour. There are six 18 yr olds from Australia, a few people in their 20's and a few older couples from Canada and the US. I would be the only person in their 30's.
To get to the Amazon involves a flight, a motorised boat up a river, a 40 min walk and then a canoe across a lake to the lodge. To be honest I was expecting a very basic setup but the accommodation was excellent. For some reason because of the numbers I get a room to myself throughout the tour which consists of a double bed and en suite. The couples have to make do with two single beds. Oh well...
The first day in the Amazon was stinking hot and the weather was great. Of course I had concerns about getting bitten by mosquito's but in the 3 days I only got one bite. Whilst at the lodge there are a few tour guides to take you on various trips. The first trip started in the evening with a walk near the lodge spotting various animals. It's amazing how alive the jungle is night with wildlife. We saw tarantulas on the trees literally about 20 feet from our rooms. Also we saw some very odd creatures with peanut shaped heads, a snake and bullfrog. The sound is amazing also.
The next day we were woken at 4.30am to go for a cruise on the lake and spotting various birds, monkeys and a giant otter family. We had good luck and I managed to get some good shots with my long zoom so it is worth the effort carrying it around. The day I spent just relaxing in a hammock in the lodge and I wished the tour had an extra few nights as the Amazon is well worth the experience. Our final night was spent on the lake again this time spotting Cayman (croc species) with our flash lights.
Now I've just arrived in the high altitude city of Cusco where I have a few days to acclimatize before setting off on the Inca trail.
Wednesday, November 26, 2008
Patagonia
After a short 3 hr flight to Punta Arenas I was welcomed at the airport by a driver holding up my name. In the afternoon I was supposed to be going on a tour of Isla Magdelena which houses a large colony of penguins. However I was told 1 hr before the trip that it was cancelled due to bad weather. Something smelt a bit fishy to me as the sky was clear and the sea looked dead calm... certainly fine for a zodiac boat trip. Anyway I couldn´t argue in Spanish and they offered me an alternative trip overland to visit some penguins at the Otway peninsular. There was no real alternative other than sitting in the hotel room so I took the tour.
You can hardly call it a tour however as they load a few people in a mini-van and then drive you to your destination which then involves walking around on your own for an hour before heading back. There was no English speaking tour guide. After doing the Australian Phillip Island trip a few months ago this trip came up short. The only difference really is that this time I could take a few photos. Although a few people have commented they liked the shots I was somewhat disappointed and annoyed I had missed out on the tour to the island. Since this was my first trip you begin to wonder if everything else will go to plan...
Day 1 - The next day involves a 3 hr drive to Puerto Natales where I joined my guide and tour group for the next 4 nights in Torres del Paine. My group consisted of tour guide Mickael (originally from Brittany, France) and two older couples, one from the UK and one from Canada. Everyone was friendly enough. It takes about 2 hrs to drive to Torres del Paine and our accomodation called the Ecocamp. On the way was a short stop to a cave and a few stops to take photos. The weather had been unusally great the past few days which was unfortunate in a way because you know it will never last, especially in Patagonia.
The famous Torres del Paine towers were clear when we arrived at Ecocamp and the view from the camp was amazing. Ecocamp as the name suggests is a (5*) basic setup which is self sustaining and minimises environment impact. They use compost for the toilets, hydro power and everything is raised above the gound on walkways. I had a dome all to myself with a double bed whereas the other couples had 2 singles. Of course being older you know how people like to moan but I´m sure they will enjoy their next stop at the Sheraton.
The domes themselves are just a metal frame with a layer of insulation and tent like material covering the outside. Inside there are many round windows, a few chairs and a bed. Because you cannot cover the windows I was awake pretty much at sunrise each day. This was lucky in a way as on the first morning the sky was clear and I grabbed a few great shots of sunrise on the Towers at 5.30am. You only have 5 mins of red light hitting the tips of the towers before the sunlight disappears.
Day 2 - After a hearty breakfast (they sure to like ham and cheese slices) you make your own pack lunch sandwiches and set off to catch a ferry to the start of our first walk. This was supposed to be an easy 8 hr walk up to French Valley with a view of French Glacier. The weather was sunny but there were customary Patagonian high winds. Upon arrival at the Glacier we had the option to climb closer to it but upon doing so it started to rain. By the time we reached the viewpoint the weather was decidedly nasty to we made haste and decended quickly. Typically as soon as we reached the bottom the weather cleared again. It is not unusal in Patagonia to have 4 seasons in one day (a la Melbourne style).
You retrace your steps back to the start of the walk at the lake where there is the planned overnight accommodation at a Refugio (hostel). The scenery was excellent through out the day as the barren landscape was covered in bright red fire bushes. These are only in bloom a few weeks so it was good timing. The Torres del Paine mountains tower 9000ft above you and it is very hard to get the impact of this despite all my best attempts at photographing them. On the numerous lakes we passed the wind was so strong it was blowing vast amounts of spray into the air and the sunlight reflected off it creating a magical rainbow effect.
By the time we arrived back at the hostel around 7pm the soles of my feet were burning. I hoped they would recover quickly for the hike the next day. In the hostel the group shared a room of 3 bunks. Two of the party were snorers and so it was a battle to get a few hours of sleep. The following morning I got up feeling decided groggy with a sore throat and blocked nose. This was as I discovered later the start of a cold virus.
Day 3 -The day involves a 12km hike to Grey Glacier where you hope the ferry is running to take you back to the start and a mini-van pickup back to Ecocamp. The walk was again in strong winds but at least there was no rain and we could see the Glacier looming in the distance. To be honest I was praying the ferry was running as my feet were not liking the prospect of another 4 hr walk back if it was not. Although 12km may seem like a stroll the terain is a little hard going with losts of up and downs. Something you see that may look about a 10 minute walk away takes you about 1 1/2 hrs to cover.
We reached the ferry pickup point with about 15 mins to spare and luckily despite fairly strong winds it arrived on time. You take a small zodiac craft to actually board the ferry. The ferry then sets off to the foot of the Glacier for a fantastic up close view. This for me was one of the highlights. The sun was shinning and the blue of the Glacier looked fantastic against the towering mountains behind.
Day 4 - By the fourth day of the trip the weather had closed in and my cold had got a lot worse. Today was supposed to be one of the highlights with an 8hr trek to the base of the Towers. It´s the most popular walk in Patagonia but sadly for me I was too sick to attempt it and due to the weather the rest of the group didn´t attempt it either. That night the temperature dropped to freezing at Ecocamp and it snowed on the mountains. As we were leaving on the final day the looming Towers appeared one last time to tease us. Alas I´m not sure I will be back but I was still satisfied that I got to see them as many people stay for a week and do not see a thing.
I´d like to say a special thanks to our tour guide, Mickael, who was very friendly and enthusiastic (esp. for a Frenchman). I´m amazed by this guy doing the same walks week after week and yet he still manages to explain everything with passion and you really feel his genuine love of the land that is Patagonia.
Now I´m back in Santiago in 30 degree heat and still trying to shake off this cold. The flight back was painful to say the least as I couldn´t get my ears to equalise with the pressure. I couldn´t hear anything for about 1hr after landing. I also had the frustrating part of 2 hrs on the plane with a 17 yr old trying to communicate with me using his mobile phone. All in all a converation that would have taken 1 minute dragged on for 2 hrs.
I will attempt a jump on/off bus tour today to see some of the older part of this cosmopolitan city. A wine tour would have been good but I can´t taste a thing due to this bloody cold. Tomorrow I fly to Lima, Peru where the next stage of my trip awaits....
You can hardly call it a tour however as they load a few people in a mini-van and then drive you to your destination which then involves walking around on your own for an hour before heading back. There was no English speaking tour guide. After doing the Australian Phillip Island trip a few months ago this trip came up short. The only difference really is that this time I could take a few photos. Although a few people have commented they liked the shots I was somewhat disappointed and annoyed I had missed out on the tour to the island. Since this was my first trip you begin to wonder if everything else will go to plan...
Day 1 - The next day involves a 3 hr drive to Puerto Natales where I joined my guide and tour group for the next 4 nights in Torres del Paine. My group consisted of tour guide Mickael (originally from Brittany, France) and two older couples, one from the UK and one from Canada. Everyone was friendly enough. It takes about 2 hrs to drive to Torres del Paine and our accomodation called the Ecocamp. On the way was a short stop to a cave and a few stops to take photos. The weather had been unusally great the past few days which was unfortunate in a way because you know it will never last, especially in Patagonia.
The famous Torres del Paine towers were clear when we arrived at Ecocamp and the view from the camp was amazing. Ecocamp as the name suggests is a (5*) basic setup which is self sustaining and minimises environment impact. They use compost for the toilets, hydro power and everything is raised above the gound on walkways. I had a dome all to myself with a double bed whereas the other couples had 2 singles. Of course being older you know how people like to moan but I´m sure they will enjoy their next stop at the Sheraton.
The domes themselves are just a metal frame with a layer of insulation and tent like material covering the outside. Inside there are many round windows, a few chairs and a bed. Because you cannot cover the windows I was awake pretty much at sunrise each day. This was lucky in a way as on the first morning the sky was clear and I grabbed a few great shots of sunrise on the Towers at 5.30am. You only have 5 mins of red light hitting the tips of the towers before the sunlight disappears.
Day 2 - After a hearty breakfast (they sure to like ham and cheese slices) you make your own pack lunch sandwiches and set off to catch a ferry to the start of our first walk. This was supposed to be an easy 8 hr walk up to French Valley with a view of French Glacier. The weather was sunny but there were customary Patagonian high winds. Upon arrival at the Glacier we had the option to climb closer to it but upon doing so it started to rain. By the time we reached the viewpoint the weather was decidedly nasty to we made haste and decended quickly. Typically as soon as we reached the bottom the weather cleared again. It is not unusal in Patagonia to have 4 seasons in one day (a la Melbourne style).
You retrace your steps back to the start of the walk at the lake where there is the planned overnight accommodation at a Refugio (hostel). The scenery was excellent through out the day as the barren landscape was covered in bright red fire bushes. These are only in bloom a few weeks so it was good timing. The Torres del Paine mountains tower 9000ft above you and it is very hard to get the impact of this despite all my best attempts at photographing them. On the numerous lakes we passed the wind was so strong it was blowing vast amounts of spray into the air and the sunlight reflected off it creating a magical rainbow effect.
By the time we arrived back at the hostel around 7pm the soles of my feet were burning. I hoped they would recover quickly for the hike the next day. In the hostel the group shared a room of 3 bunks. Two of the party were snorers and so it was a battle to get a few hours of sleep. The following morning I got up feeling decided groggy with a sore throat and blocked nose. This was as I discovered later the start of a cold virus.
Day 3 -The day involves a 12km hike to Grey Glacier where you hope the ferry is running to take you back to the start and a mini-van pickup back to Ecocamp. The walk was again in strong winds but at least there was no rain and we could see the Glacier looming in the distance. To be honest I was praying the ferry was running as my feet were not liking the prospect of another 4 hr walk back if it was not. Although 12km may seem like a stroll the terain is a little hard going with losts of up and downs. Something you see that may look about a 10 minute walk away takes you about 1 1/2 hrs to cover.
We reached the ferry pickup point with about 15 mins to spare and luckily despite fairly strong winds it arrived on time. You take a small zodiac craft to actually board the ferry. The ferry then sets off to the foot of the Glacier for a fantastic up close view. This for me was one of the highlights. The sun was shinning and the blue of the Glacier looked fantastic against the towering mountains behind.
Day 4 - By the fourth day of the trip the weather had closed in and my cold had got a lot worse. Today was supposed to be one of the highlights with an 8hr trek to the base of the Towers. It´s the most popular walk in Patagonia but sadly for me I was too sick to attempt it and due to the weather the rest of the group didn´t attempt it either. That night the temperature dropped to freezing at Ecocamp and it snowed on the mountains. As we were leaving on the final day the looming Towers appeared one last time to tease us. Alas I´m not sure I will be back but I was still satisfied that I got to see them as many people stay for a week and do not see a thing.
I´d like to say a special thanks to our tour guide, Mickael, who was very friendly and enthusiastic (esp. for a Frenchman). I´m amazed by this guy doing the same walks week after week and yet he still manages to explain everything with passion and you really feel his genuine love of the land that is Patagonia.
Now I´m back in Santiago in 30 degree heat and still trying to shake off this cold. The flight back was painful to say the least as I couldn´t get my ears to equalise with the pressure. I couldn´t hear anything for about 1hr after landing. I also had the frustrating part of 2 hrs on the plane with a 17 yr old trying to communicate with me using his mobile phone. All in all a converation that would have taken 1 minute dragged on for 2 hrs.
I will attempt a jump on/off bus tour today to see some of the older part of this cosmopolitan city. A wine tour would have been good but I can´t taste a thing due to this bloody cold. Tomorrow I fly to Lima, Peru where the next stage of my trip awaits....
Monday, November 17, 2008
New Record for Time Spent Sleeping on a Plane.
Well I've arrived safe and well in Santiago, Chile. Only one casualty so far and that was my amazing Suunto Watch which I forgot to pick-up going through my first security check on the flight from Melbourne to Sydney. Doh! Hopefully it will be handed in and a friend can pick it up.
The flight from Sydney to Santiago was great. Business class makes a huge difference. The food is as good as a 4 star hotel and the leg room is 5 times that of economy. You get proper pillows and a duvet which combined with a near flat reclining seat meant I slept at least 8 hours straight (although I can't be sure as I couldn't tell the time!)
Currently i'm staying the night in an airport hotel and had a nice spa and sauna. Another 4hr flight tomorrow takes me down to Punta Arenas where I start a tour to a Penguin colony and then the real fun begins....
The flight from Sydney to Santiago was great. Business class makes a huge difference. The food is as good as a 4 star hotel and the leg room is 5 times that of economy. You get proper pillows and a duvet which combined with a near flat reclining seat meant I slept at least 8 hours straight (although I can't be sure as I couldn't tell the time!)
Currently i'm staying the night in an airport hotel and had a nice spa and sauna. Another 4hr flight tomorrow takes me down to Punta Arenas where I start a tour to a Penguin colony and then the real fun begins....
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